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Rabbit Care

Please read the FAQ Page for more tips and important info!

FAQ PAGE

Great news! Rabbits are great pets and easy keepers because they aren't loud, are inexpensive to feed and take up little space.

 

Mini Plush Lops are perfect indoor pets because they shed less! They are also a much better choice for those who tend to have allergies

Holland Lops are also easy keepers. They, like the Mini Plush Lop, do not require any special grooming. 

Lionheads do require grooming - please see the lionhead page for info on breed care.

Visit the House Rabbit Society for any additional questions not answered on my page!

https://rabbit.org/

Some Bunny Pro's

  • Bunnies do not require (or even have) any yearly shots or vaccines. No need to take your bunny to the vet unless he or she is ill.

  • Bunnies are quiet! They are perfect for someone who doesn’t want a pet to wake up the baby, bark at the mailman or whine when they want something.

  • Unlike dogs, rabbits don’t mind being home alone all day. They are similar to a cat in that they won’t become depressed or deprived if they don’t have human interaction for hours a day. They are great for working people or kids that are away at school.

  • If you provide your bunny with an extra water bottle and plenty of food, you can leave your bunny at home in their cage on the weekends, so your family can go on short trips, no pet sitter required.

  • Bunnies inexpensive to feed! A 50-pound bags of rabbit food at a local feed store is approximately $15. This will last one rabbit at least 2 months.

Indoor Rabbit Cages

Mini Plush Lops are "House Rabbits." They must live indoors to be the healthiest and happiest. All other breeds can be either indoor or outdoor rabbits. My hope is that all rabbits sold at Ellie's Rabbitry will go to indoor homes so they can be true members of your family. 

Wire Bottomed Cages

Order ASAP! Typically takes several weeks to ship. 

Pros to Wire Bottomed cages:

* Easy Cleanup

* No bedding required

* No possibility of rabbit stepping in it's feces

* You do not need a litter box

KW cages carry my preferred indoor wire bottomed cages. Below is an images and the link of my favorite KW wire bottomed cage. For Mini Plush Lops, Holland Lops and Lionheads cages should be 24 x 24 x 16 inches at minimum. But, the bigger the better!

Mini Plush Lop, Holland Lop & Lionhead

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       KW Cage Specs

  • 1 3/8" Galvanized Refuse Pan with Front Lip

  • Super smooth rabbit-safe grid flooring.

  • Customize With Floor Options

  • Deflector Guards including Full Front Deflector

  • Door Guards

  • Top and Front Doors

  • Caster Kit Sold Separately

Click link below to order an indoor KW Cage:

Some people do not like the thought of a rabbit sitting on wire bottomed cage floors in fear that they will get sorax or “Sore hocks.” This is always a concern and possibility if you do not provide the rabbit with a platform to stand or sit on. Fortunately, a rabbit is still safely able to sit, stand and hop on wire with no problem as long as a wooden platform or plastic mat is provided and the size of the grate of the wire bottom is appropriate. All KW cage bottom options are safe for bunnies. If I felt that wire bottomed cages were harmful or painful in any way, I would not use them or recommend them.

 

Even with the wooden platform or plastic mats in their cages, many still choose to stand, hop and lay on the wire. We make our own wooden platforms by simply going to Lowe’s or Home Depot and purchasing a non-treated piece of plywood. We cut the wood into 12 x 12” pieces for our Mini Plush Lops, Lionheads and Holland lops. 

A Plastic platform is also a great alternative to wooden platforms as they are cleanable. These can be found online.

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Not Recommended

I would not recommend a plastic bottom cage like the blue one show. These are messy, hard to clean, require bedding and are better suited for other small animals like guinea pigs. 

I would not recommend any hutch or cage that does not have a wire bottom with a pan that pulls out from underneath or anything that does not have a urine guard. The KW cages are not as cute as some hutches you may find online, but they will save you a lot of time cleaning and make owning a bunny a lot more fun and less time consuming! 

Litter Training

Please visit The House Rabbit Society website for all potty training instructions and recommendations 

All inside rabbits should be litter trained to go to the bathroom in their cage. They will find a corner inside their cages to use as their "Bathroom corner." Inside rabbits typically get free range of the house when their owners are home. IF they find one more spot they insist going to the bathroom at, you should get a litter box to put in that "other" spot. Not all rabbit do find another spot to use the restroom, so I would only purchase one of the below litter boxes if you find it necessary.

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Click link and scroll to bottom of the page to see litter boxes. The size to the left is recommended for Mini Plush Lops, Lionheads and Holland Lops. The large size is recommended for English Angora.

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Click link below to order a corner litter box. Regular is recommended for Mini Plush Lop, Lionheads and Holland Lops. Jumbo is recommended for English Angora.

Place newspaper, paper towel or kitty litter in litter box tray for easy cleanup. If you choose to use kitty litter it will rid odor problems, just be sure the rabbit cant get to the litter and eat it as it can be harmful. 

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Natures Miracle is a product that can be found in most pet stores and online. This is a great product that can be sprayed in a rabbits litter box to encourage them to use the bathroom there. 

Outdoor Rabbit Hutch

An Outdoor Hutch is also a good choice for Holland lops or Lionheads if you’re not interested in having an indoor bunny. English Angoras can be kept outside but it is not recommended. They will have to be trimmed and monitored in hot weather. A fan should be set up next to their hutch to be kept cool.  

 

For outside rabbits, make sure your hutch is very similar to the one pictured. It must have 3 covered sides and a covered roof and it should have a nesting area to one side so the rabbit can hide from rain and wind.

You must monitor your outside rabbit closely! Rabbits are very susceptible to heat stroke. It the temperature is pushing 80 degrees, it would be best to take your rabbit indoors, or at least put a frozen milk jug in their cage for them to lean against and continue to monitor closely. In the winter time you must make sure your rabbits water does not freeze. Something that works well is stapling window plastic around the wire sides of the hutch. This will help trap warmth in the hutch and keep drafts out. If your bunny doesn’t have a buddy to huddle up with, I would recommend putting a hutch in the garage or bringing the rabbit inside on cold nights under 20 degrees. Also, provide lots of timothy hay or straw in their nesting area in the winter time.

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Feed

Rabbits have a few food requirements, first they must have a Rabbit Pellet that are 16-18% protein. Check the nutrition facts on the back of rabbit feeds at your local pet or feed store to make sure the protein content is sufficient. Also, be sure to get food that is ONLY a green pellet like the pellets shown in the below picture. Do not get any food that has nuts, seeds, oats or brightly colored treats in it. This will cause your rabbit to be a very selective and picky eater! A boring old pellet is the best pellet to get for your bunny. Oxbo, Country Roads or Mana Pro rabbit foods are great.

 

Something to keep in mind is, going to a feed store like Rural King or Tractor supply will have good quality rabbit feed in 50-pound bags for much cheaper than pet stores like PetSmart and Petco. Consider going to your local feed or country store so you don’t have to pay the big bucks for feed! Do not get “Young” rabbit food or “Baby” rabbit food! This is not necessary and will only make you have to switch your rabbits food again later.

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Daily Pellet Amounts for Adults:

Mini Plush Lop: 3/4 Cup

Lionhead: 3/4 Cup

Holland Lop: 3/4 Cup

Feeders

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This is a wire bottomed rabbit feeder. This is a great option to hook onto an outdoor rabbit cage.

This is a great option for indoor rabbits. This is a cat bowl and stand. Just be sure it is low to the ground for rabbits! Bowls must be in a stand or the rabbit will flip them over! This would hold water and food.

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Here is a hay feeder to put your rabbits timothy hay in. Click link to order on Amazon.

When you take home your new rabbit I will send you home with a baggie full of the food I use. I feed Country Roads Rabbit Feed from my local feed store. You DO NOT need to feed your rabbit this specific food. Again, any food will work as long as it’s 16-18% protein and is nothing but a pellet.  When you get your new bunny home, feed him or her the food I gave you for one day, then start mixing your food of choice into the food I gave you a little more each day until you run out of my food. This will give the rabbit a gradual transition and no tummy aches.

Hay

 No Alfalfa! Rabbits must have some sort of roughage in their diet. The best kind of food to meet this requirement is Mixed Grass hay or Timothy hay. DO NOT feed your rabbit Alfalfa hay. Alfalfa is too rich and will give your rabbit stomach problems. Alfalfa and timothy hay look very similar so be sure to check the packaging, or if you’re buying a whole hay bale like I do at the local feed store, ask an employee to check and make sure the bail is timothy. Pet stores and even Walmart has small packages of timothy hay, but you will pay $5-8 dollars for a small back when you could purchase a whole bail for about $12. If you have a garage or she in your yard, I would recommend buying a bale of hay and covering it with a tarp. It will last one rabbit a very long time! Mixed grass usually comes in bails too and looks very similar to timothy. It usually has dried clover and a variety of grasses mixed in it. This also works great and gives your rabbit a little variety.

Water

Lastly, your rabbit need fresh water available to it at all times! I use a rabbit water bottle with a ball just like the one pictured below. Just be sure to fill it up when it starts running low. I fill mine up every day just to make sure they don’t run out. The more expensive the water bottle the better, the cheap ones tend to drip…a lot.

Treats

 

Bunnies do love treats! There are many food people assume they can give their bunny that are actually harmful. The most commonly fed dangerous foods are leafy greens like cabbage lettuce and spinach and broccoli. Very small amounts are usually ok, but I would still highly recommend not feeding them to your rabbit at all just in case. Bunnies can’t pass gas! And these foods will produce gas in their bellies they can’t get rid of.

Below is a list of treats that bunnies CAN have! Keep p in mind, they need to be small bunny sized treats and not large portions and I would suggest feeding the following foods no more than every other day.

GOOD FOODS:

  • Apple (any variety, without stem and seeds)

  • Cherries (any variety, without the pits)

  • Pear

  • Peach

  • Plum (without the pits)

  • Kiwi

  • Berries (any type)

  • Pineapple (remove skin)

  • Banana fresh (remove peel) or dried banana chips

  • Melons (any – can include peel and seeds)

  • Carrots

  • Summer squash

  • Zucchini squash

  • Celery

  • Oats (the kind of oatmeal humans eat, uncooked.)

  • Strawberries

  • Grapes

 

BAD FOODS:

  • Bread

  • Crackers

  • Pasta

  • All kinds of Lettuce (Rabbits can’t pass gas. Some leafy greens produce gas in their bellies and makes them have a tummy ache.)

  • Potatoes

  • Rice

  • Nuts

  • Spinach

  • Kale

  • Cabbage (Rabbits can’t pass gas. Some leafy greens produce gas in their bellies and makes them have a tummy ache.)

  • more than every other day.

Nails

 

Toe nail trimmers will be necessary every month or so. There are lots of rabbit trimming tutorials on YouTube that are very helpful. If you happen to cut a nail to short, apply pressure and dab with cooking flour to clot the nail and stop the bleeding. Even I accidently cut too short sometimes. It’s a very quick and easy process that anyone can do. I trimmed my rabbits nails when I first started 4-H at 8 so please don’t hesitate to trim your bunnies nails and don’t make a trip and pay a vet to do it! it is just like cutting a dogs nails, cut the very tip and don’t get into the “Quick” or where the blood starts within the nail. On most rabbits in good light you can see where the blood starts in the nail. Just don’t get into that part and you can’t go wrong!

 

Bathing

 

Rabbits do not need to be bathed. In fact, it is harmful because it washes of the natural oils on their skin and fur which often causes irritation. If your bunny gets messy just spot treat the area with a damp towel and Dawn dish soap.

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Fix Your Rabbit!

If your not interested in breeding, I would HIGHLY recommend getting your rabbit fixed. All Mini Plush Lops from Ellie's Rabbitry are required to be spayed or neutered. Fixing your rabbit makes them very easy to work with. They no longer have any territorial issues meaning there is no possibility that they will spray or be aggressive around their cages. It also makes it much easier to potty train your bunny when fixed. Fixing your rabbit also lengthens their life expectancy. A well cared for fixed rabbit has the potential to live as long as a dog, 12 years! You can have multiple rabbits sharing a space with no issues as long as they are all fixed. Two bucks will naturally fight as well as two does. A buck and a doe will breed all the time. But, if fixed bunnies of any gender pairing can cohabitate safely and happily. Most vets will fix bunnies at around 6 months of age. It should cost the about the same as a cat to get fixed. See more fixing information at the link below:

http://rabbit.org/faq-spaying-and-neutering/

Getting Acquainted With Your New Bunny

A bunny is as sweet as you make it. If you never take the time to take your bunny out and spend time with it, it won’t be nearly as friendly. Luckily, Mini Plush Lops, Holland Lops and Angoras are pretty darn sweet to begin with, but it is still vital that you spend quality time with your rabbit! On your first day home with your bunny, it’s best to leave them in their cage and give them some quiet time to allow them to adjust to their new surroundings. On day two, get them out once or twice for about 15 minutes and let them sit in your lap. On day three it’s time to start making your bunny a part of the family! Keep in mind that young rabbits are hyper and full of energy like a puppy! Don’t be concerned if they act as if they don’t want to be heled and loved on right away. They have too much stuff to explore and don’t want to sit still for long! Pet your bunny all over, flip your bunny on its back in your lap and touch their toes and belly. Watch TV with your bunny on your lap and let them freely hop around the house. The more you do these things, the more comfortable your bunny will be with you. Soon your bunny will be following you around the house asking for attention. Rabbits in general are very social and do enjoy the company of humans if they are well socialized at a young age.

Bunnies can wear a harness and leash!

 

A cat leash fits the best and the younger you start the better. In the beginning just out the harness on the bunny and let him or her freely hop around with the harness for an hour or so for a few days. Then add the leash and gently practice leading your bunny. This is a very fun way to spend time with your rabbit, but your bunny will need some practice to perfect this skill! Some people even do agility courses with their bunnies! I’ve never personally don’t this with my bunnies but apparently it’s quite the thing! There are tons of pictures an information about it online, check it out!


 

 

 

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